5 Reasons to Have a Bathroom Heater Fan

If you need to replace the exhaust fan in your bathroom, consider replacing it with a bathroom heater fan instead. Bathroom heater fans provide all the functionality of a standard bathroom exhaust fans as well as providing heat to your bathroom. Here are 5 reasons why you should have a bathroom heater fan in your bathroom.

1. Removes Moisture and Odors from the Air

Like standard bathroom exhaust fans. Bathroom heater fans also remove moisture from the air in your bathroom. Allowing too much moisture to build up in your bathroom will fog your mirrors, promote the growth of mold and mildew, make your floors and fixtures slippery and usually provide for a overall more uncomfortable experience in your bathroom. The fan portion of your heater fan will draw moisture out of the air and pass it outside of your home’s duct tube system. In addition, the fan will also help remove unpleasant odors from your bathroom when it is necessary.

2. Keeps You Nice and Warm

The primary purpose of a heater in the home is to help keep you warm when temperatures are low. Most bathroom heater fans use some sort of infrared heat lamp that heats quickly and is ideal for heating small spaces such as bathrooms. Bathroom heater fans heat quickly but do not provide so much heat as to be uncomfortable or cause skin irritation. Allowing your bathroom to heat up a minute or two will make getting undressed for your morning shower a more comfortable experience. Your transition from the shower to the towel bar will be easier as well.

3. Helps Keep Fixtures and Mirrors Dry

Adding a heater to the exhaust fan in your bathroom will also help you keep your fixtures drier and free from mold and mildew. While standard bathroom exhaust fans do help some in this regard, bathroom heater fans do a much better job of keeping your mirrors from fogging up and keeping your sink and toilet dry to the touch. Drier mirrors and fixtures will mean less mold and mildew buildup and helps make cleaning your bathroom quicker and easier.

4. Inexpensive to Buy and Run

If you need to replace the existing exhaust fan in your bathroom, purchasing a quality bathroom heater fan will not add much more expense. In fact, the price difference between bathroom heater fans and standard bathroom exhaust fans is probably much less than you think. If you wait for bathroom heater fans to go on sale at your local home improvement store, you can save even more money.

5. Easy to Install

Most bathroom heater fans are very easy to install, and even come with complete instructions that show you exactly how to do it. Installing a bathroom heater fan is an excellent DIY project for even the novice home handyman and can generally be completed in an hour or two. To install a bathroom heater fan, you simply need a few basic tools and a step ladder.

How to Install a Light Fixture

what you'll need

• Lighting Fixtures
• Outlet Boxes
• #14-2 Wiring
• Saber Saw
• Knife or Stripping Tool
• Fluorescent Tubes
• Hand Drill
• Folding Rule
• Stud Finder
• Parts for Fixture Connections
• Hanger Bars
• Keyhole Saw
• Pliers
• Fluorescent Starters
• Screws
• Marking Pencil
• Screwdriver

These tips and suggestions on how to install wall and ceiling fixtures can help you complete a better installation in less time and with less effort.

PARTS NEEDED FOR TYPICAL FIXTURE MOUNTING

Most wall and ceiling fixtures–other than recessed fixtures–fit into standard electrical outlet boxes and are usually easy to mount.

Most fixtures are mounted by a fixture stud or a fixture strap. Occasionally you need an extension nipple or a plain nipple for mounting certain fixtures.

Any additional mounting devices required for special types of fixtures are usually included in the materials furnished by the manufacturer. Read and follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully for a neat installation.

INSTALLING A CEILING OUTLET BOX

Occasionally you may need to install a ceiling outlet box before you can mount a new ceiling fixture. Such an installation requires some time and effort, but is not too difficult.

The first step is to mark the position on the ceiling where the new outlet box is to be located. Determine the exact dimensions of the box and cut a hole in the ceiling where it will be located. Use extreme care and cut the hole to the exact size and dimensions.

There are a number of different types of boxes and mounting devices available. The boxes with the expanding devices on the sides are generally recommended for use with lightweight lighting fixtures only. This is because of the relatively small area to which they anchor. Madison hangers also fall into this category.

There are boxes designed to be nailed to ceiling joists. Angled nailing holes are provided. They make it possible to position and nail the box into a hole cut into the ceiling. The hole for this type of box needs to be cut next to a ceiling joist.

Most of the better mounting bars have an expanding feature that allows them to tighten between the joints. These bars must be inserted through a hole cut in the ceiling. Depending on the type of mounting bracket, some will lay almost flat against the surrounding drywall above the ceiling. Others will require enough clearance to attach an electrical box to the bar. You will usually want the bottom of the box to be flush with the ceiling surface.

Next, insert a hanger bar through the hole to rest firmly on the back of the supporting ceiling. Position the hanger bar carefully so it is firmly supported.

Connect the feed cable to the ceiling outlet box, as illustrated. If the feed cable is connected to a power source, turn off all power at the main switch before connecting it. Secure the electrical wire to the ceiling outlet box with a cable clamp.

Now, mount the ceiling outlet box with the wire attached on the hanger bar with the attached nipple and locknut. Be sure the current is off at the main switch. Connect the feed cable to a power source at an outlet box. Now you are ready to hang the ceiling fixture.

INSTALLING WALL FIXTURES

Click on drawing above to view animation.

As a rule, you can install wall fixtures in regular outlet boxes with an ordinary strap and nipple.

Of course, different types of wall fixtures have different connecting arrangements, but you can usually attach the strap right to the fixture outlet box with screws. Then you can attach the wall fixture to the strap with a nipple and knurled cap.

 

If the box has a central stud, you will need only an adapter and a nipple to attach the fixture. An adapter is screwed onto the stud, the nipple is attached to the adapter and the fixture is attached to the nipple.

Wall fixtures are usually quite simple to install. Manufacturers of wall fixtures design different mounting arrangements. The manufacturer will usually include complete installation instructions with the fixture.

Read and follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Always turn off the current before installing any fixture.

INSTALLING CEILING FIXTURES

Some ceiling outlet boxes have no stud in the center. In such cases, the ceiling fixture is usually installed with a strap that is screwed directly to the threads in the ceiling outlet box. The ceiling fixture is then attached to the strap with screws.

The mounting arrangement illustrated will support most lightweight ceiling fixtures. Such an installation is simple, fast and meets most wiring codes. Solder-less connectors speed up the job.

 

If the ceiling outlet box has a center fixture stud, mount the fixture by attaching the strap to the center stud with a locknut.

Once the fixture strap is firmly attached to the fixture stud with the locknut, screw the fixture canopy to the strap with two screws.

If solder-less connections are code–approved in your area, use them to connect the wires. If not, use whatever is specified by your local code. Any wires that are joined should be completely insulated. Also, use extreme care when connecting the wires. Black wires generally are attached to black wires, white to white and green or copper to green or copper. Follow any supplied wiring diagrams carefully.

Heavier drop fixtures are often mounted with a hickey. This hickey screws to the center fixture stud.

Attach a nipple to the lower section of the hickey with a locknut. Then mount the fixture canopy to the nipple with a collar.

Hickey use in mounting drop fixtures varies according to the design and weight of the ceiling fixture. Almost all heavier drop fixtures require a hickey.

Remember: Be sure the current is shut off at the main switch before attempting any mounting.

INSTALLING CHANDELIERS

You can mount chandeliers right into ceiling boxes as replacements for ordinary ceiling or drop fixtures. However, the mounting style varies according to the style, weight and design of the chandelier.

When installing heavy chandeliers, it is a good idea to check the existing box. It must be mounted firmly enough to carry the weight of the new fixture.

Figures illustrate a common mounting method for lighter-weight chandeliers. If the manufacturer recommends a different mounting, complete instructions will be provided. Read these instructions carefully and follow them in detail.

The mounting bracket is attached to the ceiling box with screws. The main rod of the chandelier is then screwed into the strap to provide adequate support.

When replacing an ordinary light fixture with a chandelier, the first step is to turn off the current and loosen and lower the canopy of the old fixture. The figure assumes that you are replacing a drop ceiling fixture mounted with a hickey.

Regardless of how it is mounted, the fixture should be totally removed, leaving the wires for the new fixture completely exposed and ready for mounting.

 

In many cases, you can mount the chandelier right into the hickey used for the old fixture. If a different type of hickey mounting is required, the manufacturer should provide it.

Some chandeliers are designed to bolt to brackets that are mounted right onto the mounting strap. In this case, the mounting bracket is attached to the nipple which is placed in a firm position with the locknut.

Then, mount the fixture to the brackets that are affixed firmly to the mounting strap. Use nice, decorative nuts to give a neat appearance to the canopy of the chandelier.

Other chandeliers must be mounted to the outlet box by a regular fixture strap. The strap is mounted to the threaded section of the outlet box, and the canopy is then mounted directly to the mounting strap.

MOUNTING FLUORESCENT FIXTURES

Fluorescent fixtures are usually mounted to an ordinary outlet box by studs, nipples or straps. A fluorescent ceiling fixture may be easier to mount than an ordinary drop or ceiling fixture.

Two types of fluorescent fixtures are available. Mounting either type is basically the same, but the wiring arrangement is totally different. Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully for mounting fluorescent fixtures.

 

This figure shows the wiring arrangement for a starter-type fluorescent fixture. Of course, manufacturers offer fluorescent fixtures that vary slightly from this design, but the wiring arrangement is basically the same as the kind illustrated.

 

This figure illustrates how to wire rapid-start fluorescent fixtures. No starter is required, but the wiring arrangement and the ballast location are considerably different.

Some manufacturers may provide slightly different wiring arrangements. If so, study the manufacturer's diagrams carefully and follow them in detail.

Be sure the current is off before attempting to install the fixture.

INSTALLING RECESSED CEILING FIXTURES

You should mount all recessed ceiling fixtures to joists. Your first step in mounting a ceiling fixture, then, is to locate the joists.

Joists in ceilings are usually located exactly 16" apart. Use a magnetic or electronic stud finder to locate these joists. If you are using a nail-on box, the joist location is very important. Even with the bar, if the hole is too close to the joist, it will make installation difficult, if not impossible.

If you do not have a stud finder, you can tap on the ceiling. As you get closer to the joists the sound becomes more deadened. Another way is to drill a small hole and use a piece of wire to help locate the joist.

 

Once you've located the joist, saw out a hole in the ceiling to the correct size and in a location which permits the recessed fixture to be mounted where it can be screwed or bolted to the ceiling joist.

Turn off the current at the main switch. Attach the electrical wiring to the ceiling fixture, then mount the fixture in the proper location.

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Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Information in this document has been furnished by the National Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated contributors. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributor nor the retailer can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.  

How to Install a Light Switch

what you'll need

• Screwdriver
• Three-Wire Feed Cable
• Wire-nuts or Screw-on Connectors
• Knife for Stripping Wire
• Toggle Switches
• Pigtails
• Insulating Tape
• Hand Cleaner
• Two-Wire Feed Cable
• Side-Cutting Pliers
• Outlet Boxes
• Cable Connectors
• Keyhole Saw
• Three-Way Switches
• Cable Straps

Follow these tips and instructions on how to replace or install electric switches to save you time and effort. Before beginning any electrical repairs, turn off the power at your service panel, fuse box or breaker box. If you know which fuse or breaker controls the circuit you will be working on, remove that fuse or trip that breaker. If there is any doubt, you can remove the main fuse or trip the main breaker.

Caution: Tripping the main breaker or removing the main fuse will usually shut off all power to the house. Take the time to read the directions thoroughly to help ensure a satisfactory job.

THREE BASIC TYPES OF WALL SWITCHES

Toggle Switch

The popular toggle switch has an arrow-shaped armature that floats between the contact points when the switch is in the off position. This armature comes in contact with both terminals when the switch is flipped to the on position (B), thus providing a continuous flow of electrical current to the light or appliance.

Mercury Switch

The mercury switch has a small hollow cylinder, partially filled with mercury. In the off position, the small contact point is above the mercury level (A). When flipped to the on position, the contact point is immersed in mercury (B). This establishes contact between the two terminals and provides power to the light or appliance.

Silent Switch

The silent switch has a steel spring armature that is pressed away from the bottom terminal when the switch is turned off. Flipping the switch lever to the on position moves the steel spring back against the contact point (B), thus establishing contact in the circuit.

• For installation purposes, all three types of switches can be used interchangeably.

INSTALLING THE SINGLE-POLE TOGGLE SWITCH

Click on drawing above to view animation.

The simplest switch system – the single-pole toggle switch – is illustrated. The ordinary single-pole toggle switch provides a means for breaking or feeding electrical current to a light, appliance, etc.

The single-pole toggle switch has two brass terminal screws. One wire (usually the black) is cut, then is connected to the two brass terminals. The other wire (white) is uninterrupted from the power source to the light or fixture. 

When connecting a wire to the terminal screw of a switch, always turn the loop on the end of the wire in the same direction as the screw threads, as shown in illustration (A). If the loop is turned in the opposite direction (B), tightening the screw will loosen the loop.

If the wire connects to the terminal screw and then runs on, cut and strip the wire on both sides of the cut. Using a 6" piece of wire with both ends stripped (sometimes called a pigtail) and a wire-nut, fasten the three wires together. Connect the pigtail to the terminal, as in the figure.

Use wire-nuts or screw-on connectors to save time and effort when you must make a splice in any electrical wire. Always cover any soldered connection with insulating tape. If soldered sections are rough, apply an extra layer of tape. Insulate the wire an additional inch or two beyond the soldered connection in each direction.

White wires should generally be attached to light colored terminal screws such as silver. Black wires should generally be attached to dark colored screws such as brass colored. If the terminal screws are the same color, either wire can generally be attached to either terminal. Green terminal screws are for grounding wires.

INSTALLING SWITCH OUTSIDE MAIN WIRING RUN

Click on drawing above to view animation.

Use an ordinary toggle switch for installations outside the main wiring run. Shut off all current at the main service panel. At the light fixture, connect the black wire from the switch to the black wire from the light fixture. Connect the white wire from the switch to the black wire from the power source.

CAUTION: Anytime it is necessary to connect a white and black wire together, take the time to paint the white wire black at both ends to indicate that the white wire is attached to a power source. Connect the white wire from the light fixture to the white wire from the power source.

At the light switch, connect the black wire to one terminal and the white wire to the other. Remember, a green screw is always for the ground wire.

INSTALLING IN-LINE SWITCH FOR CONTROL OF ONE LIGHT

Shut off all current at the main service panel. A third wire (red) must be added to the power cable for this switch arrangement. The red wire serves as a black wire from the switch to the light or outlet which is to be controlled.

Study the diagram carefully. You will note that the white wire feeds continuously from the power source to all fixtures. The black wire is pigtailed on one terminal of the switch, while the red wire attaches to the other terminal. The black wire then runs continuously through to the light or outlet which is not controlled, while the red wire runs from the switch terminal to connect with the black wire on the controlled light or outlet.

This arrangement allows the switch to control the first light or outlet while power continues uninterrupted to the second fixture.

INSTALLING SWITCH AND CONVENIENCE OUTLET IN SAME BOX

Shut off all current at the main service panel. At the double-switch box, connect a pigtail to the brass terminal on the outlet and another pigtail to either of the terminals on the switch. Wire-nut these two pigtails and the black wire from the light fixture together. Connect the white wire from the light fixture to the silver terminal on the outlet. Connect the red wire from the light fixture to the other terminal on the switch.

At the light fixture, wire-nut the white wires from the power source, the light fixture and the switch together. Wire-nut the black wires from the power source and the switch together. Wire-nut the red wire from the switch and the black wire from the light fixture together.

INSTALLING TWO PARALLEL SWITCHES FOR CONTROL OF TWO SEPARATE LIGHTS

Shut off all current at the main service panel. At the switch box, attach a pigtail to one of the terminals on switch 1. Connect a second pigtail to one of the terminals on switch 2. Wire-nut these two pigtails and the black wire from the light fixture together. Connect the red wire from the light fixture to the other terminal on switch 1. Connect the white wire from the light fixture to the other terminal on switch 2. Be sure to paint the white wire black.

At light fixture 1, wire-nut the black wire from the power source and the black wire leading to light fixture 2 together. Wire-nut the white wires from the power source, light fixture 1 and light fixture 2 together. Wire-nut the black wire from light fixture 1 and the red wire to light fixture 2 together.

At light fixture 2, wire-nut the black wires from light fixture 1 and the switches together. Wire-nut the white wires from light fixture 1 and light fixture 2 together. Wire-nut the red wires from switch 1 and light fixture 1 together. Wire-nut the white wire from switch 2 and the black wire from light fixture 2 together. Be sure to paint the white wire black.

HOW A THREE-WAY SWITCH WORKS

The illustration uses open-knife switches to demonstrate how a three-way switch works. Wire No. 1 feeds directly from the power source to the light fixture. However, power must be fed through two wires for the light to function. The flow of power through wire No. 2 is continued or broken by the two switches, as illustrated.

Power through wire No. 2 reaches the first switch at the center or common terminal (A). If the knife-switch handle were in position (B), the current would flow through to terminal (D). However, this arrangement would not provide a continuous power flow since the knife switch, as illustrated, is at position (G). The light bulb would not be illuminated.

Since the first switch is at position (C), the current flows directly through terminal (E) to terminal (F), then through handle (G) to turn on the light. Note that when either handle is placed in the opposite position, the circuit is broken and the light is not illuminated.

Note also that if you swing either handle to the opposite position, the current flow is made continuous and the light goes on again. Obviously, knife switches are not used in an electrical installation. They are used here simply to illustrate what happens inside an ordinary three-way switch when it is installed.

THREE-WAY SWITCHES FOR LIGHT
CONTROL BEYOND SWITCHES

Shut off all current at the main service panel. At the light fixture, wire-nut the white wires from the power source and the light fixture together. Wire-nut the black wires from the power source and the switches together. Wire-nut the black wire from the light fixture and the white wire from the switches together. Paint the end of the white wire black.

At switch 1, locate the terminal on the three-way switch that is marked as common and attach the red wire. Attach the black wire to either of the two remaining terminals. Attach the white wire to the last terminal.

At switch 2, locate the terminal on the three-way switch that is marked as common and attach the red wire. Attach the white wire from switch 1 to either of the two remaining terminals. Paint the end of the wire black. Attach the black wire from the light fixture to the last terminal. Wire the black wire from switch 1 and the white wire from the light fixture together. Paint the end of the white wire black.

THREE-WAY SWITCHES FOR LIGHT
CONTROL BETWEEN SWITCHES

Click on drawing above to view animation.

Shut off all current at the main service panel. At switch 1, find the terminal marked as common and attach the red wire. Attach the white wire to either of the two remaining terminals. Attach the black wire to the last terminal.

At switch 2, find the terminal marked as common and attach the red wire. Attach the white wire to either of the two remaining terminals. Attach the black wire to the last terminal.

At the light fixture, wire-nut the two red wires from the switches together. Wire-nut the two white wires from the switches together. Wire-nut the black wires from the power source and switch 1 together. Wire-nut the white wires from the power source and the light fixture together. Wire-nut the black wires from the light fixture and switch 2 together.

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Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Information in this document has been furnished by the National Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated contributors. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributor nor the retailer can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document. 

How to Install a Ceiling Fan

TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST

• Ceiling Fan
• Swag Kit
• Low-Ceiling Mount
• Patented Support Unit
• Neon Test Light
• Claw Hammer
• Speed Controller
• Wallboard or Compass Saw
• Stud Locator
• Electrician's Pliers
• Cable-Ripper
• Cable, Switch/Outlet Box, Switch, Box Connectors
• Wire-nuts, Switch Cover, Bonding Screw, Staples
• Mounting Kit
• Lock Washers
• Angled-Ceiling Mount
• 4" x 1-1/2" Octagon Electrical Box
• No. 2 Phillips Screwdriver
• 3/16" Slotted Screwdriver
• Pliers
• Soft Cloth
• Ladder
• Wire-Stripper
• Surface-Wiring System

GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS

• An easy-to-install ceiling fan can make a real difference in your home's climate–both cooling and heating–at a far lower cost and operating expense than almost any other item.
  
• The installation begins with choosing where the fan should be located. In almost all homes, the fan is installed in the center of the room, replacing a central light fixture. This spot provides a smooth air flow to most of the room.
  
• Since a fan draws about the same power as a ceiling fixture, the electrical circuit shouldn't be overloaded. But if your fan includes lights, be sure the circuit it's on has enough extra capacity to handle the load. If not, you must run a new circuit with a new circuit breaker from the house main service panel or sub-panel to the fan.
  
• If there is no central light fixture, you'll have to create a place to hang the ceiling fan. Then, you'll need to bring electrical power to it. You can tap into an existing circuit to do this.

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MOUNTING THE CEILING FAN Start your installation by turning off the power to the light's circuit breaker or fuse. Only then should you remove the light fixture. If there is no central light fixture, snap diagonal chalk lines from opposite corners of the room to find its center. Determine whether the lines cross exactly below a ceiling joist. If they do, move aside just far enough between joists to let you fasten the side of the fan's new junction box directly to the joist. Cut a hole large enough for the junction box to be slipped in. If it's next to the joist, drill holes in its side and screw it to the joist. Installation between joists is OK, too. Fasten the box to a 2x4 header nailed between the joists. Sometimes, you can insert a 2x4 header through the junction box's hole, nailing it to each joist. If not, you may need to open a larger access hole. Then, patch the hole to close it again. You may choose to use a patented fan support unit designed to be inserted through the normal junction box hole to save you from opening a hole in the ceiling. Use only a metal junction box to support a ceiling fan–never hang the fan from a plastic box. Depending on the brand, style, and size of your ceiling fan–and your electrical code – you may use a 4" or 3" octagonal junction box. (Some local codes don't permit the use of 3" boxes.) The heaviest fan that should be supported by an outlet box is 35 lbs.. If it weighs more, the building structure must support it. Whatever you do, make sure the junction box is supported well enough to hold at least 50 lbs. That's the weight of an average ceiling fan. Also, your mounting must be able to withstand vibration while the fan is running. Even a well-balanced fan creates some vibration when it runs. You'll use a special beam mount when mounting a fan to a beamed ceiling. Use one kind for a horizontal beam, another for a pitched beam (Fig. 3). You may need an extender to lower the fan to the proper level. Fan-mounting is particularly important because any failure to make things secure could allow your fan to fall from the ceiling.

Click on drawing above to view animation.

ASSEMBLY Fan assembly varies from brand to brand. Be sure to follow the specific instructions with the unit you buy. Regardless of the manufacturer's instructions, if the fan blades are less than a screwdriver's length away from the ceiling, it may be best to install the blades before hanging the fan. The hanger pipe is usually placed into its hole on top of the motor. The wires are drawn up in the center. A set screw is tightened securely to make sure the pipe stays in place after it is threaded down. Some fans have a separate motor hub into which the hanger pipe mounts. In this case, you'll place the actual motor housing over the hub. Other fans have a two-piece decorative ceiling cover to hide the hole in the ceiling. It is installed after the fan has been hung on the ceiling. Tighten the set screw well. Other models use a hook, with the hanger bracket designed to accept it. To attach the fan blades, set the motor unit down where it will be stable. Often, the styrene foam packing for the motor housing makes an excellent stabilizer on your worktable. Most fan blades have a two-pronged attachment, using screws that come through holes in the blades and into the flanges. These need to be drawn up securely, but not so tightly that the threads are damaged or the laminated blade material is crushed. On many fans you'll find the flanges, or prongs, also need to be mounted to the motor housing. If this is the case, mount them before the flanges are mounted to the blades themselves.

HEIGHT BENEATH BLADES Now, check the floor-to-ceiling height of the fan blades. You can do this by measuring the floor-to-ceiling distance and subtracting for the part of the fan that will extend below the ceiling down to the lower blade surface. An absolute minimum height of 7' is recommended. This may be reinforced by building codes in your area. If the floor-to-ceiling distance is too little, check into a low-ceiling mount for your fan. With some models, the fan blade height can be increased by as much as 10". Remember, though, that you need at least 12" between the ceiling and the tops of the fan blades for proper airflow. Having 18" is better if the space is available.

MOUNTING THE FAN TO THE BOX Install the hanger bracket on the box with screws and lock washers. If no lock washers are supplied, get some–they prevent fan vibration from loosening the screws over time. The hanger bracket may accept either a half-ball hanger or a hook-type hanger, depending on which kind your fan uses. Either way, the hanger is carefully slipped into the bracket. Next, the unit is wired, and the ceiling cover is slipped up to its full height and tightened in place. Be sure to connect the black house wires to the black fan wires, and the white house wires to the white fan wires. The fan should be electrically grounded to both the metal box and the fan. The grounding wires will be either green or bare copper. A green grounding pigtail attached to the box by a bonding screw will make your work easier. Wire-nut the ground wires from the box, the fan and the power supply together. If the fan wobbles when it runs, its blades may be unbalanced. To correct this, try interchanging two adjacent blades. If that doesn't work, take all the blades off and weigh each one on a food or postal scale. If any is underweight, tape a soft object such as a pencil eraser or modeling clay to the top center of the blade, making its weight the same as the others. Fan balancing kits with detailed instructions are also available. Reinstall the blades and the fan should run smoothly.

PROBLEM HANGING When nothing else works for fan mounting, use a piece of good-looking hardwood plywood as a fan-mount. It should be large enough to extend over two joists. The size may be 18" x 18" or 26" x 26", or any variant that does the job. Use brass screws in pilot-drilled holes to attach the plywood to the ceiling joists. The screw length will vary, depending on the thickness of the plywood and plaster or plasterboard ceiling below the joists. Use one screw every 6". The plywood will have an access hole of proper size cut in its center, and will serve as the main mounting member for the junction box above it. Finish the plywood with an outside corner molding, mitered at the corners for a neat appearance. Or, you can get a surface-mounting fixture box along with a surface conduit wiring system that meets electrical codes. This allows you to do the wiring installation on the ceiling and wall, rather than behind it. You may wish to wire your new ceiling fan through a fan speed control. This lets you set its operating speed smoothly and easily.

SWAG KIT USE Swag kits are available if you wish to have a super-easy installation and a degree of portability in a ceiling fan. These replace the above-ceiling wiring job. In this case, though, the hanger bracket is screwed directly into a ceiling joist. The swag kit is wired into the fan, and the fan assembled as described earlier. Then slip it into the hanger bracket. The chain and cord are hung from hooks carried across the ceiling, toward a wall and down the wall, where the cord plugs into a handy receptacle. A swag-mounted ceiling fan can be taken down in a few minutes and moved to another location.

ELECTRICAL SAFETY Use extra care when working with electricity. Less current than it takes to light a 60-watt bulb can be lethal. All wiring should conform to local electrical codes as well as to the current National Electrical Code (NEC). You can probably find a copy of the NEC at your local library. Never trust a light switch to render a fixture "dead," because sometimes the power enters at the fixture, even when the switch is located in the circuit beyond it. Turn off the circuit you're working on by switching off a circuit breaker or by unscrewing a fuse (the house main switch should be off when handling fuses). Then padlock the panel if you can. Make sure the circuit is truly "dead" before touching any wires or terminals. Check with a high-voltage neon tester. Test from the black wires to a grounded metal box or other good ground, then to the white wires. Also test from the white wires to a ground. Since there may be more than one circuit inside an outlet box, before you take off a cover, see that all of its circuits are off. Also, be sure your tester is functioning by first trying it in a live receptacle. Test your finished work with the power on using the neon tester. Check black to white and black to a ground. It should light. Test white to ground. It should not light. If you aren't knowledgeable about working around electricity, call in a professional.

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Information in this document has been furnished by the National Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated contributors. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributor nor the retailer can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.

How to Install Electrical Wiring

Use these tips and instructions for adding new electrical wiring. Take a few minutes to read the directions thoroughly. Following these instructions can save you time and effort and ensure a safe installation. 

BASIC PRINCIPLES OF GOOD WIRING

Before beginning any electrical repair, shut off the power. Remove the fuse or trip the breaker for the circuit you will be working on in your service panel. Use a neon tester to be sure the power is off. If there is any doubt, you can remove the main fuse or trip the main breaker. Remember: Removing the main fuse or tripping the main breaker will usually shut off the power to the entire house.

Electrical wires are color coded to prevent wiring errors. White wires almost always connect to other white wires or to chrome terminal screws on switches and receptacles. Some wiring devices–such as receptacles–are back-wired by pushing the bare wire end into spring grip holes. These wiring devices are plainly labeled to show which color goes into each spring grip hole. Switches are nearly always connected into black wires in cables. The only exception is where a cable is extended, making it necessary for the white wire to play the role of the black wire. When this is necessary, the white wires should be painted black to prevent future wiring errors. Study the wiring diagram. This will help you understand the basic principles of good wiring. Also, find a good electrical how-to book. It's one book every homeowner should keep on hand for ready reference. Most home wiring is complete with either No. 14 gauge or No. 12 gauge wiring. No. 14 is the smallest wiring permitted under most codes. Always use the same size cable for a continuation of any extended wiring circuit.

CONNECT NEW WIRING TO LAST OUTLET IN CABLE

New wiring should be connected to the last outlet in a run of cable. To locate the last outlet in the run, shut off the current. Remove the cover plates from each outlet on the circuit. The last outlet in the run has wires connected to only two of the four terminal screws. The two unused terminal screws on the last receptacle serve as a starting point for wiring to a new outlet.

ATTACHING CABLE FOR NEW WIRING

Shut off the power to the circuit you will be working on at the service panel. Loosen the screws holding the receptacle in the box and remove it, as shown. Attach the the earth wire (the bare or green) to the chrome terminal. The yellow (or green in some instances) wire should be connected to the receptacle and the box maintaining the equipotential bonding on the earth system. The earth wires should only be connected to the correct screw terminals on the recepticle to the brass terminal on the receptacle and to the box, if the box is metal. Use care to match the size of the original cable. If No. 12 wire is used, continue with No. 12. If No. 14 wire is used, use No. 14 for continuing the cable. The size of the cable is usually stamped on the side of the cable. New wiring can be connected to continue the run beyond the last receptacle. Note that the new wires are pulled through knockout plugs in the back of the outlet box.

ADDING NEW WIRING FROM A JUNCTION BOX

New wiring can also be tied into a junction box, unless the wiring in the junction box is already at maximum capacity. Before tying in at a junction box, always trace the cables leading to the box to check the voltage. Be sure you are not connecting a 120-volt outlet to a run of wire providing 240 volts for larger appliances. To tie in new wiring at a junction box, first shut off the current at the service panel. Locate the main supply cable coming into the junction box from the service panel. Locate the supply wire by tracing the white wires. All white wires in the junction box will be attached to the white wire on the supply line. Knock out the unused plug on the junction box and run the new line from the box as illustrated. Be sure to use a cable clamp to secure the cable to the junction box.

TYING IN NEW WIRING AT A CEILING LIGHT

You can tie in new wiring at a ceiling light if the light is not controlled by a switch. Shut off the current at the service panel. Tie white wires to white wires and black wires to black wires, as illustrated. Connect the ground wires as illustrated. If you are using a metal box, attach them to the box as well as the light fixture. Knock out an opening in the outlet box, and continue the new wiring as illustrated.

ALWAYS MATCH CONNECTORS TO TYPE OF CABLE USED

Some boxes come with built-in connectors. Armored cable connectors have inner rims to hold fiber bushings at the end of the cable. Nonmetallic cable connectors are designed to grip the installation around the cable with a two-screw clamp. Regardless of the type of cable used, always leave about 6" to 8" of wiring in the box to allow plenty of wire for making easy connections. You can tighten the nut on either type of cable connector by placing a screwdriver in the notch and tapping the screwdriver lightly.

MAKE ALL CONNECTIONS IN APPROVED BOXES

Always remember that connections must be made in an approved box. Never connect one cable to another by an open-line splice. All switch, outlet, and junction boxes must be positioned so they are always accessible. You can easily remove knockout plugs with a nail punch, screwdriver or metal rod.

RUNNING NEW CABLE BETWEEN MULTIPLE FLOORS

Drill a hole through the floor from bottom to top, as illustrated. Be sure the hole is drilled into the recessed area behind the wall rather than in the open. Be sure to use a bit that's large enough to permit free passage of the wiring cable.

Run the cable through the newly drilled hole to the desired location for the new receptacle or switch. Bring the cable through the opening by using a weight on the end of a string and a wire with a hook on the end.

Using this same technique, you can add one outlet to another by drilling up through the floor, pulling the cable under the floor, and then running it to the desired position on the opposite wall. The same wiring can be pulled through for either receptacles or switches. 

ADDING NEW WIRING FROM BOXES IN CEILING

If your home has an unfinished attic, it may be easier to add new wiring by attaching it to boxes in the ceiling. In this way, gravity works for you rather than against you. Attach the cable to the box as previously described.

Cut a hole in the wall at the desired location for the switch or receptacle, and run the cable from the box in the ceiling to the new outlet location. Bring the new cable through the wall and ceiling by cutting and drilling holes in and through the wall, the 2x4 plate, and the ceiling. A special fish tape is available for these types of jobs.

ADDING NEW WIRING ON THE SAME WALL

You can connect new cable from an existing outlet to a new outlet on the same wall by running it inside the wall. Mark the approximate location of the new outlet. Using a stud finder locate and mark the wall studs. Start one stud before the existing outlet and end one stud after the new outlet. Mark the exact location of the new box. Make it the same height as the existing box. Do not locate it over a stud. Using a drywall or keyhole saw, cut the opening for the new box. Using a utility knife and a drywall saw, cut a strip of drywall about 3" wide out of the wall, below the outlets. Start at the center of the first stud you marked and end at the center of the last stud; watch for nails as you cut. Carefully remove the drywall strip. Using a hand or circular saw, make two cuts 1" apart and 3/4" deep in each of the exposed studs. Using a hammer and a chisel, remove the wood between the two saw cuts.

Be sure the power is off to the existing outlet. Remove the cover plate and the receptacle. Remove one of the knockouts in the bottom of the box. Run the new wire behind the wall and up through the knockout in the box. Tighten the clamp and attach the wires. If the box does not have a clamp, place a wire clamp on the new cable. Tighten the screw to hold the clamp on the wire. Be sure the nut is off the wire clamp and run the wire up to the box as before. Feed the threaded end of the clamp up through the knockout, replace the nut and tighten. Replace the receptacle and the cover plate. On the new box, remove one of the knockouts in the bottom of the box. If the box you are using is a self-clamping box, insert the box into the wall and tighten. If not, insert the box into the wall, insert a Madison hanger on each side of the box, and bend the tabs over into the box to tighten. Finish running the wire from the existing box through the notches and up behind the wall into the box as before. Clamp the wire and install the receptacle as in the figure. Install the cover plate, turn on the power, and test the circuit with a neon tester. Shut off the power again to safely finish the project. Nail metal cable protectors to the exposed studs over the notches. Replace the drywall strip you removed earlier. Use the spackling compound and drywall tape to complete the installation. Cable can be pulled from an existing box on one wall to a new outlet on the opposite side of the same wall.

Attach a cable to the existing receptacle in the box as previously described. Allow ample slack in the cable to permit easy connection to the new box to be installed on the opposite wall. Bring the cable through the new opening with a wire, as illustrated in. Connect the cable to the new box, attach the desired receptacle, and mount the box to the wall with box supports if it is not near a stud.

TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST

• Two-Wire Cable
• Switches
• Screwdriver
• Extra-Long Bit
• Conduit
• Fish Tape
• Outlet Boxes
• Electrical Tape
• 1/4" Drill
• Cable Connectors
• Pigtails
• Hand or Circular Saw
• Madison Hangers
• Drywall Tape
• Cable Protector Plates
• Switch Boxes
• Side Cutter Pliers
• Wire-nuts
• Chisel
• Drywall or Keyhole Saw
• Three-Wire Cable
• Receptacles
• Brace
• Ripping Bar
• Wire
• Neon Tester
• Stud Finder
• Hammer
• Spackling Compound

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Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Information in this document has been furnished by the National Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated contributors. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributor nor the retailer can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.